Hair breakage and split ends – why they happen and how to fix them

What hair breakage really is

Hair breakage is when the strand snaps off along the hair shaft instead of falling out naturally from the root. Split ends are breaks that start at the very tip – where the hair is oldest and most fragile. When the cuticle of the strand is worn down, the inner core is exposed, and the hair fiber becomes brittle and fragile.

Signs of breakage: shorter "sprouts" sticking up, ends that refuse to become smooth, more tangles/knots, and "no length" despite the hair growing – it breaks off as fast as it grows.

Why hair falls out – common causes

• Heat: Excessive blow-drying/straightening/curling with heat tools dries out and weakens the cuticle layer.
• Chemical treatments: Coloring, bleaching, relaxers/perms make the hair more porous and sensitive.
• Rough handling: Aggressive brushing, detangling dry curly hair, and wearing it up too tight causes mechanical damage.
• Friction from textiles: Cotton pillowcases, rough towels, and wool hats lift the stratum corneum.
• Imbalance in moisture/elasticity: Hair that is too dry becomes brittle; over-hydrated hair loses bounce and breaks off.
• Untrimmed top growth: Small cracks spread upwards if they are not trimmed off in time.

How split ends form

When the cuticle layer at the ends is gone, the inner layer frays – like a strand running through. Common types: classic "Y" split, feather-like multi-split, and simple knots (common in curly/coily hair). The only way to get rid of them is to cut them off – but the important thing is to prevent new ones .

Step-by-step: Stop hair breakage

1. Wash gently: Use a mild, sulfate-free shampoo. Massage with fingertips (not nails). Focus on the scalp – let the lather rinse through the lengths.
2. Conditioner every time: Conditioner smooths the cuticle and provides elasticity. Comb through with a wide-toothed comb while the conditioner is in. Add a deep conditioning treatment once a week.
3. Dry gently: Squeeze out water and pat with a soft microfiber cloth or T-shirt. No harsh rubbing or twisting.
4. Limit heat – and use protection: Lower the temperature (approx. 180–185 °C), always use heat protection. Air dry/diffuse in cool conditions when possible.
5. Top regularly: Cut 0.5–1 cm every 8–12 weeks to prevent cracks from spreading upwards.
6. Protect your nights: Reduce friction and moisture loss on the pillow (see below). This is where you win the most in the long run.

Reinforce the routine with protective hairstyles.

Protective hairstyles – such as braids, twists, buns, or locs – reduce manipulation, keep the ends tucked in, and limit friction. This makes a big difference in avoiding breakage, especially in textured/curly hair.

But the surface also plays a role here: cotton on the pillow or rough caps can still cause friction. A silk cap (for 360° protection) and/or silk pillowcase (low friction for all hair types) helps the style stay neat longer – and reduces new split ends.

See silk cap · See silk pillowcase

The night factor you're probably missing.

A third of a hair's life is spent against the pillow. Cotton absorbs moisture and creates micro-friction every time you turn over – small damages that in the long run become breakage and split ends.

Switching to silk allows the hair to glide instead of getting tangled, and retains more of its natural moisture. A silk pillowcase + a silk bonnet provides maximum protection: smoother cuticle, less knots and stronger lengths over time.

Habits that worsen interruptions

• Wrong tool on wet hair: Use a wide-toothed comb/detangling brush; start at the ends and work your way up.
• Skip the leave-in: Dehydrated lengths are easier to cut off – add a light leave-in for flexibility.
• Tight hairstyles every day: Continuous pulling at the hair roots weakens the strands near the root.
• Sleeping without protection: The single biggest saboteur of an otherwise good program.
• The forgotten scalp: A clean, healthy scalp provides a better environment for growth (gentle massage, regular cleansing).