What "dry hair" really means

Healthy hair has a smooth cuticle that retains water and lipids in the hair shaft. When the cuticle is worn or lifted, moisture escapes faster, the surface becomes uneven, and light is reflected less well – the hair feels rough and looks dull.

Typical signs: rough, "bristly" feel, tangles and knots easily, dull finish despite conditioner, recurring frizz, and more split ends/breakage.

Why hair loses moisture

• Harsh or frequent washing: Strong sulfates and daily washing strip the hair of its natural oils.
• Heat and hot water: High heat opens/damages the scale layer; hot showers dry out the skin before you can even get to the towel.
• Chemical treatments: Coloring, bleaching, relaxers/perms increase porosity – water goes in quickly but comes out just as fast.
• Coarse textiles: Cotton towels and pillowcases absorb moisture and provide friction that lifts the scales.
• Environment: Cold, dry winter air and strong sun/UV radiation draw out moisture.
• Imbalance in products: Humectants only = water without a "seal"; oils only = a film on top of dry hair.

Moisture model: humectants, emollients, occlusives

Think of hydration in three steps:

• Humectants (e.g. glycerin, aloe, hyaluron, propanediol) attract water.
• Emollients (light oils/esters) soften and help the scaly layer to lie flat.
• Occlusives (butters/silicones) reduce evaporation by creating a light seal.

The goal isn't "more product" – but the right order and balance for your porosity and hair type.

The routine that actually moisturizes

1. Cleanse gently: Choose sulfate-free shampoo (or co-wash for very dry/curly hair). Wash the scalp and let the lather glide through the lengths. Use lukewarm water, not hot.
2. Condition with intention: Apply moisturizing conditioner from mid-length to ends. Detangle with a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in. Leave on for 3–5 minutes.
3. Deep conditioning every week:
   • Low porosity: use lighter masks + gentle heat (shower cap/towel) for better absorption.
   • High porosity: combination of protein + moisture (silk/keratin + humectants) to support structure and retain water.
4. Seal in on damp hair (~80% dry):
   • Leave-in (humectants + light emollients)
   • Then sealing according to hair type:
   • Fine hair: light milk/serum.
   • Wavy/curly: cream + small amount of gel to "set" the hair cuticle.
   • Coily/high porosity: cream + a few drops of oil (LCO/LOC).
5. Reduce heat: Air dry/diffuse cool. When using tools: below approx. 185 °C and always use heat protection.
6. Protect the night: Change the friction surface – this determines how long the softness lasts (see silk below).

How to customize according to hair type

Fine/lightly weighed down: Opt for light humectants and milky leave-in conditioners. Minimal sealing (one pump of light serum). Avoid heavy butters/oils that flatten volume.

Wavy: Focus on glide and frizz control: conditioner + light cream. Squeeze in some gel on damp hair. Diffuse dry or air dry.

Curly hair: Deep condition weekly; add a protein + moisture mask every 2-3 weeks. Style on wet/damp hair; seal with cream + gel. Preserve curls overnight with a silk bonnet or "pineapple" method + silk pillowcase .

Coily/high porosity: Layer upon layer: leave-in conditioner → cream → a few drops of oil (LCO/LOC). Only detangle in the shower with plenty of slip. Protective hairstyles + silk at night make a big difference.

The Textile Factor – Why Silk Makes a Difference

Cotton is hydrophilic and absorbent – it draws moisture out of the hair and creates friction that lifts the cuticle. Over time, the hair becomes dry despite good products.

Silk is low-friction and non-absorbent: hair glides, retains more of its own moisture, and looks shinier. A silk pillowcase suits all hair types; a silk bonnet provides all-around protection – perfect for longer, wavy/curly/coily or protective hairstyles.

Protective hairstyles for moisture retention

Braids, twists, buns, and locs reduce manipulation and keep the ends tucked – which limits both moisture loss and mechanical wear and tear .

Two keys that many miss:
1) Rehydrate before styling (leave-in + cream), so you lock in softness in the hairstyle itself.
2) Use a silk cover at night so that the fabric doesn't "steal" the moisture you just added.

See silk cap · See silk pillowcase

Fault finding: still dry?

• Products "sit on top": Likely low porosity – use warmer water, lighter textures, and gentle heat when masking.
• Soft but fragile: Risk of over-moisturizing – add a light protein treatment every 2–3 weeks.
• Shiny but still feels dry: Likely a coating . Gently clarify every 3-4 weeks, then rehydrate.
• Great day 1, dry day 3: The textile is stealing moisture. Switch to silk at night and evaluate after a week.